domingo, marzo 06, 2011

Ernesto Bazan, Cuba y Latinoamérica

Hace un tiempo, publiqué una entrevista en la web de Letras Libres a Ernesto Bazan, gran fotógrafo italiano que dejó un muy personal punto de vista sobre la Cuba del Periodo Especial a través del lente de su cámara y que hoy viaja por toda Latinoamérica fotografiando e impartiendo talleres.

Había escrito una redacción basada en esa entrevista, que no se publicó, y que finalmente elijo compartir aquí con ustedes.

Las fotos de Ernesto Bazan son sobrecogedoras, inquietantes, íntimas. Verdaderas. Lejanas a la imagen de esa Cuba sonriente, festiva, exótica o folclorista que se muestra al turismo como un edén de la alegría y la libertad.
 


La Cuba de Bazan es la que día a día sufre las consecuencias de vivir bajo las dos pesadas losas de un bloqueo que les impide desarrollar su economía y de una dictadura que les impide expresarse y vivir con libertad, sin miedo a sufrir consecuencias.


"Ni una sola de las miles de imágenes que existen de Cuba, tomadas por fotógrafos cubanos y extranjeros, se asemejan a éstas. Las imágenes aquí presentadas llevan el nombre del fotógrafo como sello, su percepción, su pensamiento, y cuentan una historia que sólo le pertenece a él", dice la prestigiosa crítica fotográfica Vicki Goldberg en el epílogo de BazanCuba, el libro en el que este fotógrafo siciliano ha dejado resumidas sus sensaciones y sentimientos de catorce años de vida en la isla a lo largo de 280 páginas con 118 fotografías, aderezadas con extractos de su diario personal manuscrito, en una edición cuasi artesanal en la que colaboraron más de 50 estudiantes de sus talleres, y que se vende sólo a través de Internet.


No es la de Bazan, nacido en Palermo en 1959, año de la Revolución cubana, una visión complaciente. Es cruda y desgarrada.


"La Habana está en un estado de descomposición física y mental; parece exhausta y cayéndose a pedazos. Es enorme la degradación. Sueños rotos y desolación por todos lados", escribe en un fragmento de su diario personal correspondiente a 1992, reproducido en su libro.

La Cuba que muestra Bazan está filtrada por la visión personalísima de alguien que está "casi seguro" de haber vivido en la isla en una vida anterior. Muestra el dolor de los cubanos ante las dificultades de la vida diaria, y la presenta desde el dolor que le ha producido el tener que dejar la isla hace ya más de cuatro años, cuando tuvo que exiliarse tras recibir la advertencia de que su familia podía "tener problemas".


Lo curioso es que en un estado policial como el cubano, a veces los problemas no te llegan por desavenencias con el régimen, sino por cosas mucho más mundanas: los vecinos de Sissy, la mujer de Ernesto, no soportaron que ella pudiera darse una vida mejor que la de ellos, y denunciaron las actividades de su marido. Ernesto lo dice claramente: "Mis talleres son caros". Ergo: no aptos para bolsillos de estudiantes cubanos, sólo asistían estudiantes extranjeros.

"Algunos vecinos envidiosos de mi esposa, que tenía un nivel de vida más acomodado, como no tienen nada que hacer en todo el día, empezaron a escribir cartas anónimas y convirtieron algo muy bonito, como lo de mis talleres fotográficos, en un crimen de Estado", resume.


Así fue que en 2006, tras 14 años de vida en una isla que siente como suya, donde se reencontró con la atmósfera de esa Palermo que lo vio nacer en 1959 (el mismo año en el que nació la Revolución Cubana), Ernesto tuvo que dejar la isla.


"Cuando tienes esposa e hijos cubanos, no puedes permitirte jugar con el régimen", dice. La excusa fue que el reglamento del Centro Internacional de Prensa cubano establece que un extranjero no puede impartir clases de periodismo, aunque sí lo pueda ejercer. "La acusación fue que yo era fotoperiodista y estaba dando talleres de periodismo. Según el reglamento del Centro de Prensa Internacional, yo puedo sacar todas las fotos que quiera, pero no puedo dar clases de periodismo. Es una de las tantas estupideces que hay en un mundo regido por ese tipo de reglas", dice.

"Yo he dejado de ser fotoperiodista hace muchos años. Los míos son reportajes de mucha introspección", dice, pero sabía que no podría convencer de eso a las autoridades que decidieron que sus talleres eran de periodismo. Pese a intentarlo.
"Obviamente, fue un momento duro, porque teníamos una casa, cosas materiales... Pero cuando llega el momento en que sientes que estás a punto de perder la libertad de escoger lo que quieres hacer en tu vida, estaba dispuesto a entregar hasta mis cámaras para que mi familia y yo saliéramos sin problemas", cuenta. Pese a ello, no hace de su situación un drama ni se victimiza. Reconoce que es un privilegiado.

"En comparación con lo que les pasa a los cubanos, siempre digo que lo que me pasó a mí es algo muy pequeño", dijo. "Mi familia ha tenido la suerte de poder regresar hasta la fecha a visitar a su familia; entonces, para mí, no es nada del otro mundo", cuenta.


De privilegiado a expulsado
La maledicencia y la envidia de unos vecinos con mucho tiempo libre en el estado policial de los CDR (Comités de Defensa de la Revolución) pudieron más que la simpatía que el trabajo de Bazan llegó a despertar en algunas autoridades cubanas.

Hasta el propio Raúl Castro (por entonces jefe de las Fuerzas Armadas) tuvo el gesto inédito de dejarle fotografiar una semana al Ejército cubano cuando Bazan lo solicitó en una carta, y luego el gobierno lo invitó a exponer esas fotografías en el Museo de la Revolución.


"El gobierno cubano sabía exactamente lo que yo hacía, porque controlan e-mails, teléfonos... Tenía una relación normal con el gobierno sin tener que lamerle el culo a nadie...", dice y se detiene a pensar.  


"En realidad, era privilegiada", dice, "el mismo Raúl Castro pidió que yo hiciera una exposición del trabajo que había hecho a lo largo de una semana en el Museo de la Revolución. ¡Y no me pidieron nada! Yo dije: “Voy a hacer la exposición con las fotos que tengo”. Que son fotos muy personales. La única cosa que me pidieron y accedí porque me pareció un buen pedido, es que incluyera algunas fotos de mujeres soldados. Y fue una situación totalmente surrealista: en el Museo de la Revolución -que era el ex palacio presidencial de Batista- rodeado por todos esos generales, la secretaria de Raúl Castro llamándome por la mañana a mi casa deseándome éxito con mi exposición...", rememora.
 


"Ellos eran conscientes de que mi fotografía sobre el Periodo Especial [los años que siguieron a la caída de la Unión Soviética, especialmente duros para Cuba después de que Rusia manifestara que no seguiría enviándole ayuda] mostraba la dureza, las dificultades del día a día de los cubanos, y a pesar de eso me abrieron las puertas. Veían que trato de fotografiar siempre al hombre con mucha dignidad, a pesar de las dificultades que tiene que encarar. Y eso creo que le gustó al régimen cubano y por eso me permitieron entrar en muchos lugares, lo que ayudó mucho a que mi proyecto llegara donde yo quería", admite, y al final, se muestra agradecido de su destino.

"Al final, créeme, es como se dice en Italia: “Se cierra una puerta y se abre un portón”. Era parte de mi destino. Yo tengo dos niños varones: si me hubiera quedado en Cuba, a los 17 años tendrían que haber hecho dos años de servicio militar obligatorio, y ni hablar del lavado de cerebro que recibían cada día en la escuela... Entonces, creo que ha sido mucho mejor que hayamos salido de la isla", confiesa.

 

Los amigos y la infancia
Los principales amigos que Bazan dejó en Cuba son campesinos, quizás por eso de que los ambientes rurales de la isla aún no están contaminados de la picaresca de las grandes ciudades propiciada por el turismo y las necesidades materiales, un fenómeno social común a todas las grandes ciudades latinoamericanas (y quizás todas las del Tercer Mundo en donde los habitantes suelen ver a los turistas europeos como verdaderos euros andantes) y del cual La Habana es unos de sus mayores exponentes. Pero no quiere meter a todos en el mismo saco, y prefiere recordar los grandes amigos que allí dejó.

"Estaba feliz de haber encontrado mi niñez siciliana en el campo, y hubiera podido fotografiar muchos años más, pero el destino quiso que tenga que salir", dice. La Cuba de la que Bazan se enamoró, es la Cuba campesina, que le recordaba a la Sicilia de su juventud, no la Cuba habanera en la cual se ha instalado una carrera por acaparar más bienes materiales que ostentar ante el vecino, de lo que les llega principalmente por medio de los turistas o el contrabando, a una Habana donde paulatinamente los valores primigenios de la revolución se han visto desplazados por el ansia de acceder al negocio de los chavitos, los pesos cubanos convertibles a dólar. Esa Cuba habanera que fue la que lo expulsó.

"Ahora mi nueva Habana se llama Salvador, y mi nueva Cuba es el estado de Bahía, donde llevo muchos años fotografiando, y estoy feliz... en toda América Latina hay miles de lugares donde fotografiar que me encantan: quiero dedicar el resto de mi vida a fotografiarla", cuenta con satisfacción.

El arte de ser un "dinosaurio"
Bazan no se siente periodista, se siente artista. Quizás por eso siga trabajando con lentitud en sus proyectos de largo aliento, sin dejarse seducir por la velocidad de la fotografía digital.

Sigue con sus rollos de película y la artesanía de lo analógico en una época en la que tanto la fotografía de laboratorio como los libros de fotos están siendo dejados atrás por la fuerza de lo digital. Y sigue editando libros cuidadosamente trabajados, como objetos de culto, pese al avance abrumador de los formatos virtuales.


"Como soy un dinosaurio, no tengo que trabajar para la prensa, no tengo entregas abrumadoras, estoy encantado de la vida, estoy feliz. En Oaxaca [donde imparte talleres del Día de los Muertos todos los años] me esperan cinco estudiantes y mi impresor, que ha revelado sesenta rollos de Salvador que hice este verano, y ahora le voy a entregar otros sesenta rollos que acabo de hacer en Perú, y me encanta esa vida... Después con calma, con mi lupita, con un mezcalito, empezar a mirar, a deprimirme un poquito... Pero al final ojalá pueda surgir algo bueno. Y así es mi vida como fotógrafo, no tengo ninguna prisa, y mis libros se demoran años para nacer", señala.


Ese romanticismo le ha llevado también a rebelarse contra las editoriales y fundar su propia firma para publicar sus libros: BazanPhoto Publishing.
"El mundo editorial te friega mucho. Pierdes mucho los derechos, el control del libro, te pagan una miseria... La única cosa que tenía por cierta cuando salí de Cuba es que no quería que las editoriales me jodieran otra vez un libro, como me había pasado en los dos primeros. Y me siento un privilegiado porque tuvimos (en plural, con mis estudiantes), el control pleno, la plena soberanía sobre cada palabra y cada fotografía. Todo lo elegimos juntos. Y por eso quiero seguir así. Si dentro de algunos años alguna editorial me pide publicar mis libros, lo voy a hacer sólo si aceptan mis condiciones. Porque nosotros somos los que creamos las fotografías de los libros, y nos cuesta mucho trabajo, no solamente en términos económicos, sino también por el esfuerzo de tener la capacidad, la salud, el tiempo, para volver muchas veces a al mismo lugar... A este libro le entregué catorce años de mi vida... ¡Catorce! Entonces, considero que tiene que ser así, porque ese trabajo lo hice yo", sostiene.

BazanCuba, impreso sobre en papel mate alemán con tintas hechas especialmente para esta impresión, es un buen ejemplo del romanticismo que impregna el trabajo del siciliano.

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